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dedicated computer requirements audio computer PCA

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#21 FelipeRolim

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 04:19 PM

Regarding to JPLAY yet, as we know, there are many possible adjustments we can make to play a song on the best possible way to our ears and/or look more real and faithful. It's important to say because, in generic approaches like this I intend (it's a kind of "guide" that I hope will be applicable to the most diverse cases), it isn't possible to establish predictions or taxative results. As the hearing process is quite complex, and and not only through the mechanical stage of the hearing (ears), but also through a cognitive, intellectual stage, it's necessary to point out the existence of various ways to meet the listener's wishes. There are those who seek maximum comfort and musicality, even if that means giving up some realism, and some want the highest degree of fidelity to the media.

 

From what I've tested and watched over time, and more carefully over the last few days, JPLAY caters perfectly to any audience. On my system, when using the Kernel Streaming, ULTRAstream, Hibernate mode enabled, DAC Link at 1Hz and OS Clock at 15.6ms, I got a sound tending to the comfort side, the sound always soft, intimate, but that's precisely why it lost in certain respects of realism. By changing the DAC Link to 1000Hz and OS Clock to 0.5ms, the sound gains in realism, precision, extension, spatiality, delicacy, being much more organic and, in my understanding, more faithful to the original content of the media. Without wanting to get into the merits of what's right and what's wrong, I can assure you that JPLAY offers fertile ground for any kind of sonority that you seek, and this in a higher level of performance, still clearly above the other software that I've tried.

Who liked to photograph, a few decades ago, preferred either Canon, or Nikon. Nikon gave a superior status, but Canon was excellent. Two identical photos, made at the same time, with the same accuracy, same film, were evidently different, with top machines of the two brands. The one of the Nikon probably more "artistic", privileging the details, the one of the Canon more balanced and privileging the whole. But both were very correct. All perfect, but different photos, because photo isn't reality, it's a recreation of it. The same is true of music. Like photographic machines, several aspects (among them software) will influence something in the result, because they form the path of the signal, and therefore they act in some way in the result. Some will privilege the whole, others the details, and among the details, the emphases will also be different. This, in principle, doesn't mean that one is superior to the other, although in real systems, an adjustment will always tend to give better or worse results than the others. However, one thing is correction, tonal extension, timbre fidelity, transparency, detailing, harmonic body, etc., another thing is the "typical sonority", the "approach". Everything is mixed, and evidently the timbre, the extension, the apparent speed, the duration of the notes, etc., will imply in different sonorities. The JPLAY doesn't change completely with the different settings (as with HySolid, for example), has its own approach, but also allows different sounds to be produced within a single line, just like the photos made by Nikon and Canon. So, we have to know what to distinguish between what's a form of playing, what's a typical sound, and - on the other hand - what's performance, superior (or inferior) performance. I, therefore, believe that only in a series of attentive and repetitive auditions, of well-chosen passages, for a good period can we distinguish accurately what's best from what just seems better. Hard to define at once. That's why I recommend as many auditions as possible.

Here, after tireless testing, what seemed more realistic, more intimate and faithful was with the adjustment at 1000Hz and with the OS Timer at 0.5ms. My evaluations are extremely careful. We need to define what we seek to only then choose what works best for us. For now, the combination of 1000Hz and 0.5ms is unbeatable, and I suggest you try out various combinations thoroughly.

 

With this, I think I can finalize the analysis of JPLAY. Go to the next step...


  • Thuan, moriez and Dulliesger like this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#22 taxman2

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 04:42 PM

Yes, you are absolutely right. KS, Ultrastream, 1000Hz, 0.5 msec. is the absolute winner. Especially now when one could play not only flacs with these settings but hires, DSD, etc.... With previous version I was able to play @KS, Ultrastream, 700Hz, 0.5 msec. only uncompressed flac 44.1/16. IMHO, the new version is a huge step forward....Not to mention the vast improvement of SQ. And the most important - no more need of minimserver! No more drawing the RAM. Control pc draws max of 5MB RAM and Audio pc 6MB. No more music stoppage, interruptions, rebooting computers and so on. This was in the past.

Welcome to the real world! Get two fanless computers, install JPLAY FEMTO, configure dual pc setup and let the music flows!


  • Marcin_gps, Thuan and FelipeRolim like this

Furman Elite (power conditioner), JPlay Femto iOS, JPlay Femto, AO4, TC 3.1b: 2 x fanless mini PC (Intel I5-Skylake), Control PC - WS 2022 DataCenter core -16GB RAM, Audio PC - WS 2022 DataCenter core 8GB RAM, JCAT USB Femto Card, 2 x JCAT Femto Net Cards, 1 x 200VA Ultra Low Noise LPS, 4 x 100VA Ultra Low Noise LPS, JCAT USB Isolator, Singxer SU6, Gustard A26, Audia Flight Pre Mk III (dual mono class A preamplifier), Audia Flight FL50 Mk IV(dual mono class A amplifier), Focal Electra 1028BE,1008BE, Focal Electra sub;


#23 FelipeRolim

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 07:17 PM

Yes, you are absolutely right. KS, Ultrastream, 1000Hz, 0.5 msec. is the absolute winner. Especially now when one could play not only flacs with these settings but hires, DSD, etc.... With previous version I was able to play @KS, Ultrastream, 700Hz, 0.5 msec. only uncompressed flac 44.1/16. IMHO, the new version is a huge step forward....Not to mention the vast improvement of SQ. And the most important - no more need of minimserver! No more drawing the RAM. Control pc draws max of 5MB RAM and Audio pc 6MB. No more music stoppage, interruptions, rebooting computers and so on. This was in the past.

Welcome to the real world! Get two fanless computers, install JPLAY FEMTO, configure dual pc setup and let the music flows!

 

taxman2, I follow what you write a long time ago. You don't know how happy I'm when I read posts like this one. It makes me feel on the best way.


  • Marcin_gps likes this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#24 FelipeRolim

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 04:06 PM

Friends, over the previous posts I wrote about the prerequisites of a dedicated (or two) computer and the best softwares I think we have available today for the purpose of listening to music. You’ll find detailed descriptions (and humanized, which is very important in listening to music) about how to select basic items for the dedicated computer, the operating system to be used, and music playback software (with some specs on the best settings that I got in my experiments). From now on I intend to deal with specific subjects related to the computer that serve to transform it into a reference item, which serve to transform it, definitively, into a machine to play music.

 

Whoever accompanied the posts I wrote in the topic I created to guide the configuration of Windows Server 2016 in RAMdisk (http://jplay.eu/foru...guration-guide/), coupled with what has already been written here, certainly noticed that I’m absolutely in favor of using as few hardware controllers as possible. One way to "cultivate the field" for this purpose is through RAMdisk, because it allows you to eliminate or at least reduce the use of the SATA controller. In my experiments, doing RAMdisk doesn’t gain in sound quality just because Windows is running from RAM, but also in the fact that at least one SSD is removed from inside the computer.

 

Before that, let's talk about another related subject.

 

From my experiences, a dedicated computer gains (and greatly) by using a dedicated SATA cable and a SATA power filter. The power supply I created has more than 1F of capacitance (over 1,000,000uF), has a very high filtering and no ripple (if you are interested, I can talk in detail about the power suuply, because I’ve tested a lot for years). More than that: measuring the power outputs through an oscilloscope, it’s noticed that the energy is completely clean. It has no high frequency noise, no ripple, there’s nothing emitting noise from 20Hz. Even so, a SATA filter like a SOtM brings a very interesting result, perhaps because of a specific combination of capacitors and other components that exists in the filter. There’s still a different way of powering the SSD, but it has not yet allowed me to come up with conclusive results, so it has not yet been implemented here definitively. In addition, here, the use of a SATA cable called Audiophieeling SATA Statement brought a result significantly superior to the change of the USB cable to a Curious Cable. Therefore, I believe that both items (filter and cable) help too much in raising the level of performance. Despite this, no cable or filter has as positive a result as the absence of SSD/HD, added to the shutdown of the SATA controller directly in the BIOS. In other words, removing from the computer the SSD, the filter and the cable and disabling the SATA controller in the BIOS is even better. Note that for Audio-PC, therefore, making RAMdisk enables the complete absence of SATA connections. On the other hand, for the Control-PC or in the case of Single-PC, the use of RAMdisk makes possible to remove at least one SSD, a cable and a SATA filter from inside the computer. Since Windows runs directly from RAM, the SATA controller is now only serving to open music files and nothing else. We don’t miss anything with this, because in addition to RAMdisk bring improvement to the sound quality, the removal of at least one SSD, a cable and a filter from inside the PC computer brings too. This is without regard to economy, since cables such as SATA cost relatively expensive (almost the price of the dedicated USB card itself).

 

Here, in Audio-PC, for convenience, I load Windows to the RAM through a pendrive and then disconnect the pendrive of the computer. Thus, it uses neither SATA controllers nor onboard USB controllers (the USB output of the DAC is provided by the dedicated card). In Control-PC, for now, I don’t do RAMdisk. What's important to explain is that, if you use Control-PC with songs stored on an internal SSD, you can load Windows directly from that SSD, after which it will only serve the songs. If you use music stored on a NAS, you can use the same way the pendrive to load Windows into RAM and then remove the pendrive (it’s more convenient when the computer is turned on 24 hours a day, as in my case). This still doesn’t eliminate the possibility of loading Windows through the home network, being stored on the NAS itself and sent to the RAM over the network. None of this is impossible to do, although the latter option I have not tried.

 

Once that is done, I can assure you that a significant improvement can be noticed in the sound quality, and I repeat: not only because of RAMdisk (which actually improves), but also because it will be possible to remove the SSD and its extra devices from the computer. I still don’t have a conclusion about comparing M.2 NVMe and SSD SATA III, but the impression I have is that for sound, the SSD with a dedicated cable follows winner.

 

It's important to note that I'm not dealing with those softwares that, installed in Windows, allow you to separate a fraction of the RAM to make RAMdisk. I'm talking about sending 100% of the OS and all applications to RAM, which, here, takes a total of 8GB. There’s a substantial difference in this. I also remind you that as Windows will be loaded from a virtual disk (.vhd file), so you’ll only need 16GB of RAM and a USB stick. You don’t need to format the currently used SSD.


  • moriez likes this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#25 Nobudy

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 05:04 PM

Friends, over the previous posts I wrote about the prerequisites of a dedicated (or two) computer and the best softwares I think we have available today for the purpose of listening to music. You’ll find detailed descriptions (and humanized, which is very important in listening to music) about how to select basic items for the dedicated computer, the operating system to be used, and music playback software (with some specs on the best settings that I got in my experiments). From now on I intend to deal with specific subjects related to the computer that serve to transform it into a reference item, which serve to transform it, definitively, into a machine to play music.

 

Whoever accompanied the posts I wrote in the topic I created to guide the configuration of Windows Server 2016 in RAMdisk (http://jplay.eu/foru...guration-guide/), coupled with what has already been written here, certainly noticed that I’m absolutely in favor of using as few hardware controllers as possible. One way to "cultivate the field" for this purpose is through RAMdisk, because it allows you to eliminate or at least reduce the use of the SATA controller. In my experiments, doing RAMdisk doesn’t gain in sound quality just because Windows is running from RAM, but also in the fact that at least one SSD is removed from inside the computer.

 

Before that, let's talk about another related subject.

 

From my experiences, a dedicated computer gains (and greatly) by using a dedicated SATA cable and a SATA power filter. The power supply I created has more than 1F of capacitance (over 1,000,000uF), has a very high filtering and no ripple (if you are interested, I can talk in detail about the power suuply, because I’ve tested a lot for years). More than that: measuring the power outputs through an oscilloscope, it’s noticed that the energy is completely clean. It has no high frequency noise, no ripple, there’s nothing emitting noise from 20Hz. Even so, a SATA filter like a SOtM brings a very interesting result, perhaps because of a specific combination of capacitors and other components that exists in the filter. There’s still a different way of powering the SSD, but it has not yet allowed me to come up with conclusive results, so it has not yet been implemented here definitively. In addition, here, the use of a SATA cable called Audiophieeling SATA Statement brought a result significantly superior to the change of the USB cable to a Curious Cable. Therefore, I believe that both items (filter and cable) help too much in raising the level of performance. Despite this, no cable or filter has as positive a result as the absence of SSD/HD, added to the shutdown of the SATA controller directly in the BIOS. In other words, removing from the computer the SSD, the filter and the cable and disabling the SATA controller in the BIOS is even better. Note that for Audio-PC, therefore, making RAMdisk enables the complete absence of SATA connections. On the other hand, for the Control-PC or in the case of Single-PC, the use of RAMdisk makes possible to remove at least one SSD, a cable and a SATA filter from inside the computer. Since Windows runs directly from RAM, the SATA controller is now only serving to open music files and nothing else. We don’t miss anything with this, because in addition to RAMdisk bring improvement to the sound quality, the removal of at least one SSD, a cable and a filter from inside the PC computer brings too. This is without regard to economy, since cables such as SATA cost relatively expensive (almost the price of the dedicated USB card itself).

 

Here, in Audio-PC, for convenience, I load Windows to the RAM through a pendrive and then disconnect the pendrive of the computer. Thus, it uses neither SATA controllers nor onboard USB controllers (the USB output of the DAC is provided by the dedicated card). In Control-PC, for now, I don’t do RAMdisk. What's important to explain is that, if you use Control-PC with songs stored on an internal SSD, you can load Windows directly from that SSD, after which it will only serve the songs. If you use music stored on a NAS, you can use the same way the pendrive to load Windows into RAM and then remove the pendrive (it’s more convenient when the computer is turned on 24 hours a day, as in my case). This still doesn’t eliminate the possibility of loading Windows through the home network, being stored on the NAS itself and sent to the RAM over the network. None of this is impossible to do, although the latter option I have not tried.

 

Once that is done, I can assure you that a significant improvement can be noticed in the sound quality, and I repeat: not only because of RAMdisk (which actually improves), but also because it will be possible to remove the SSD and its extra devices from the computer. I still don’t have a conclusion about comparing M.2 NVMe and SSD SATA III, but the impression I have is that for sound, the SSD with a dedicated cable follows winner.

 

It's important to note that I'm not dealing with those softwares that, installed in Windows, allow you to separate a fraction of the RAM to make RAMdisk. I'm talking about sending 100% of the OS and all applications to RAM, which, here, takes a total of 8GB. There’s a substantial difference in this. I also remind you that as Windows will be loaded from a virtual disk (.vhd file), so you’ll only need 16GB of RAM and a USB stick. You don’t need to format the currently used SSD.

"(if you are interested, I can talk in detail about the power suuply, because I’ve tested a lot for years)"

It would be interesting to read about who you tried



#26 Rob

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 05:30 PM

I also am interested, as I have built my own and wonder which regulators you think sound the best.
Regards Rob.

#27 FelipeRolim

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 09:43 PM

Friends, to talk about computer power supplies, I need to go back a bit. My first fully dedicated computer was a Core2Duo E7500 with 2GB of DDR2 RAM. I always followed with common computer power supplies, never something different. Soon after having set up an Intel J1900-based computer, however, I began to dedicate myself to power it. I started with a very simple power supply: it had a toroidal of 15VAC, 20,000uF of capacitance and diodes MUR860. Nothing more. I bought in China a PSU that worked from 16 to 24v and, so, the idea seemed perfect: working the power supply in the 20v DAC range, when the mains voltage was 120v AC, the voltage could rise to 144v and go down to 96v without leaving the working range of this PSU. That is, the risk of damage was almost non-existent and the construction extremely simple. The power supply picked me up for a long time, and then I made certain adjustments to it. I found that the wire that connected the output to the PSU contained a resonant harmonic whose frequency and its multiples corresponded to the length of the wire itself. So, I immediately added a WIMA capacitor of 0.1uF to the PSU input, which gave me a relatively interesting cleaning in the high frequency range. This, coupled with the computer's cabinet grounding, was responsible for removing significant barriers to my system's performance. After that, still pretending to get even better power, I provided countless auditions with different batteries. I used automotive batteries, cell phone batteries, aeromodelist batteries, among many others. There was a time when I was powering the computer as follows: a 12V automotive battery for the PSU to generate voltages for the motherboard; a 9v battery for the USB SOtM card; a portable 5v cell battery for the HD and the SSD. Additionally, the SOtM dx-USB HD also used a 12v battery. The battery tests started with the storage drivers and, given the improvements they made, they took over the whole computer. However, instead of continuing to use the batteries, I adopted their benchmark performance to try to optimize that linear power supply I had already built. The best way I found, at first, was to increase capacitance to 50,000uF and improve capacitor quality. I started using the Nichicon Gold Tune of 10,000uF each, added to some other implementations.

 

At first, I could observe the following: a) ALL the batteries with the same compound have approximately the same sonority. Lithium batteries play approximately equal, and nickel-cadmium and zinc-carbon batteries (I think this is related to the noise that the chemical reaction of the compounds can generate); b ) among the batteries, the number of cells can impair the sound, because there's a certain resistance between each one, and the more cells there are, the worse for the final result; c) an intermediate linear power supply gained in dynamic and transient sounds (e.g., drum plates, large orchestral masses), whereas the battery is superior in continuous and sustained sounds, such as a saxophone, a flute, solo voices; d) any battery plays with more silence, cleanliness, delicacy, softness than a linear input power supply or medium. The reasons for this are several, but the most latent is the fact that the battery has a "clean energy." On the other hand, a high-level linear power supply can play MUCH better than a battery, with more life, dynamics and body, and for that a more elaborate project is needed, with some care that I will explain. One solution that actually works is to use much more capacitance than is normally needed in a linear power supply, in order to create an extremely disproportionate bank that simulates a kind of battery (my computer, for example, had 50,000uF of capacitance before the current version (which I call MK III). I have achieved a hybrid system, with a linear power supply and interposed capacitors, which, in addition to the function of stabilization and ripple reduction, have the function of a "virtual battery". Thus, the first assumption of high throughput is: high capacitance.

 

Another important issue is the voltage regulator. I have tested several LM, TDA and LT regulators. I noticed that each one has its own sound characteristics, and although it hasn't tested all the available ones in the market, it seems to me very difficult or impossible to find some that's completely invisible. Among them, the best voltage regulators are the LT, especially LT1084 and LT3045, which I really like. However, an electric circuit is necessary for the regulation, and this whole circuit ends up causing harm to the audio, in some cases. The best, therefore, would be to create a linear power supply without a regulation sector. This means that the output DC voltage will vary depending on the AC voltage of the outlet. Then you could ask me: but is not that dangerous? Let's do a calculation: the Mini-Box M4-ATX (which I use) accepts voltages from 6 to 30v. Assuming our linear supply will have 20v without regulation for a nominal 120v voltage, that means we would only reach the 30v limit with 180v AC voltage. Now, if the voltage reaches 180v (which is very unlikely), our last concern will be the computer. Thus, the second assumption of high throughput is: absence of voltage regulator circuit. (In the case of the M4-ATX, which I have and I know very well, I can assure you that it's very transparent to what's behind, to the sonority that the power supply prints to the computer. That's why in the fine tuning of sound I only stick to the DC power circuit of the M4-ATX. However, and here is the interesting part, there is currently a voltage regulator that I consider unbeatable in sound quality: the LT3045. The disadvantage is that it is only made for 0.5A (some circuits with two support 1A, so I was experimenting with the power of the SSD, but as I removed it from Audio-PC, I haven't yet reached a conclusive result. I believe that to power SSDs and dedicated low-power PCI-Express cards, LT3045-based controllers today are the best in sound quality, but this demands more thorough testing, which I didn't do).

 

Continuing. Capacitors, resistors, diodes, all have their own "sonority". A bad capacitor in the middle of the path will make the whole circuit go back. It will be a very disastrous thing to take care of certain aspects of the power supply and forget about the quality of the material. I recommend using Nichicon Muse (KZ) capacitors, which are the ones I used in the small linear power supplies I built. The price isn't high and the difference for the better isn't small. As diodes, among the several that I tested and are more accessible, I suggest the MUR860 and MUR1520. The UF (ultra-fast) are also very good, but the sound is more metallic, not so pleasing. I definitely don't recommend the use of diode bridges, with one exception: IXYS brand. Without prejudice, for me, the best diodes for audio today are the Schottky (SiC). These are the ones I've used on every project. If you cannot use SiC, you'd use the IXYS bridge. They're the best I know. I cannot name capacitors because each one has particular sonorities that can fit better with each one's systems. I have preferred the Nichicon Gold Tune for value for money, but Epcos is also very god. Thus, the third assumption of the high yield is: component quality.

The boards on which these circuits are mounted also have their own sound. This is evident, since various qualities of copper, various fiber thicknesses, or other material may be used, and this reflects in the final quality. In order to escape this kind of problem, I suggest something simple, which effectively produces results, although it can be aesthetically ugly: direct connection, point to point, and symmetrical between polarities. There's nothing more "perfect" and precise than the direct connection from one component to another without a board, only using the conductors of the components themselves and soldering. I assure anyone who ventures to build a power supply that won't be able to find a better way to make the connection, although the aesthetic isn't the best. Thus, the fourth assumption of high throughput is: direct connection between components.

 

As a next aspect, in a general overview I'm trying to do, we have the transformer. There's a wide discussion about which is the best for audio, with the E/I model encountering strong defenders, and the toroidal also encounters other strong defenders (as well as the R-core). I particularly like the insulating type toroidal. For good performance, however, a few more attentions need to be taken: a) the efficiency of the transformer is directly connected to the core material and the tightness of the wires around it. Typically, toroidal transformers with silicon core and well coiled achieve efficiency in the house of 90 to 95%; b ) the quality of copper is fundamental; c) whenever possible, electromagnetic shielding should be chosen. It makes no sense for a transformer to effectively isolate the primary and the secondary and on it can be electromagnetic waves that foul the quality of the energy; d) a major ally in noise reduction is the primary transformer. If it has a higher than normal inductance, the transformer will be more immune to changes in the electrical network and will be much more stable and quiet. Thus, the fifth assumption of high efficiency is: insulating transformer with silicon core, electromagnetic insulation and higher inductance in the primary.

As a penultimate aspect, I cite the capacity of the supply. Power supplies that work on or near the edge always lose some income. It better be oversized. In my case, the Audio-PC consumes in the range of 20 to 25w, and its linear power supply has capacity for up to 120w. Being far from its limit, there's always better performance, and this is the fifth assumption of high performance

 

Finally, something that I consider indispensable, to add to the insulation of the transformer, is the high frequency filtering. Please, note: no transformer is 100% efficient in insulation between primary and secondary, so some "dirt" can pass through it and degrade power quality. And not only that. The reverse path is also true. The equipment itself, in this case the computer, can generate high frequency noise, noise that's able to "return" through the power circuit and dirty the power of other equipment. Thus, it's important that there's a filter circuit, however minimal. The capacitors of the bank will do this in an inefficient way, so, as a complement, it's interesting to add a capacitor in parallel, after the larger capacitors, in the last step of the power supply. This capacitor can have a value of 0.1uF, can be from film/MKP/WIMA and, the closer this capacitor is to the PSU (in my case, the M4-ATX), the better it will avoid feedback from the wiring hamonics. I don't recommend polyester because of its fragility, nor is it electrolytic due to electrical characteristics, Another interesting factor related to the subject is the inductance. Filtration through inductors creates effects that are completely detrimental to audio. I've tried to put inductors of the most diverse species and, even, to make inductors with the own wiring of the power supply. Not important if the inductor has air core or ferrite, it always harms the audio. The only thing I tested in series with the power supply and that doesn't generate negative effects to the audio is the resistance. By placing one or more resistors in series in the circuit, we can greatly attenuate the noise, and the only change that will occur will be that caused by the sound of the resistor itself. For example, a 0.5 ohm resistor associated with a capacitance of 10,000uF is tuned to 31.831Hz, so, at 60Hz there will already be an attenuation next to 20dB of electromagnetic noise and, at 120Hz, an attenuation close to 40dB. Thus, the sixth assumption of high yield is: adequate filtration.

Note that none of this is simple, and creating the circuit and making it work in practice is quite complex. Even so, I believe that with these steps the vast majority will be able to develop their own circuits and obtain an excellent result with a relatively small cost. Honestly, I cannot conceive how a battery, however good it is, can play better than a linear power supply built with such care. I can assure you of that. As a last point, I would like to point out that although I like the result of the full-ATX power supplies (with regulators and totally unrelenting voltages), I think the result of the model I created can reach higher level, although in my case it does not reach high powers, due to the high filtration. To do this, I need to change my project, but it is also perfectly possible. In any case, I've never tested the linear power supply that is sold by JCAT.

 

Hope it helps...


  • Rogs23 likes this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#28 taxman2

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 09:51 PM

Interesting but a way above my knowledge. I am sure this might help people with certain knowledge wishing to build their own PSU or LPS, etc...


Furman Elite (power conditioner), JPlay Femto iOS, JPlay Femto, AO4, TC 3.1b: 2 x fanless mini PC (Intel I5-Skylake), Control PC - WS 2022 DataCenter core -16GB RAM, Audio PC - WS 2022 DataCenter core 8GB RAM, JCAT USB Femto Card, 2 x JCAT Femto Net Cards, 1 x 200VA Ultra Low Noise LPS, 4 x 100VA Ultra Low Noise LPS, JCAT USB Isolator, Singxer SU6, Gustard A26, Audia Flight Pre Mk III (dual mono class A preamplifier), Audia Flight FL50 Mk IV(dual mono class A amplifier), Focal Electra 1028BE,1008BE, Focal Electra sub;


#29 Tomslin

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Posted 19 November 2018 - 05:01 AM

Yes, it was interesting reading. Thanks.


AudioPC: Intel S1200V3RPS, Intel Xeon E3-1230LV3, Apacer AP2GITETLQ1K3 4GB DDR3 1066 ECC DIMM,

SATA to CF Adapter with Apacer AP-CF016GRANS-ETNRC, JCAT USB Card Femto,
JCAT Reference SATA Cable, JCAT Net Card Femto

ControlPC: Intel S1200KPR, Intel Xeon E3-1265L V2, Apacer 75.A83EE.G000C 4GB DDR3 1066 ECC DIMM,

SATA to CF Adapter with Apacer AP-CF016GRANS-ETNRC (for Windows), SATA to CF Adapter with Apacer AP-CF016GRAFS-NR (for WAV-files),

JCAT Reference SATA Cable, JCAT Net Card Femto, JCAT Signature LAN Cable

Software: Windows Server 2019 Standard, Total Commander 9.21a, JPLAY 7 Femto, Audiophile Optimizer 3.00, Upplay 1.4.1

Audio equipment: JCAT Reference USB Cable, Harmony Design Pre 906, Moon Audio Silver Dragon V3 with Furutech Rhodium XLR, Sennheiser HD800


#30 FelipeRolim

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 01:14 PM

Once we get into the subject of the computer power supply, there's something very important to be said about it: I don't know this happens because the power supply I built is extremely transparent, I don't know if the fact that it's at the beginning of the audio path causes reflection on the whole set, or both, but fact is that the dedicated computer (Audio-PC) is the most transparent and susceptible item to be influenced by the power cables I have. For now, my system is composed of four electronic devices: the integrated amplifier Sunrise V8 MK IV, the Ayre QB-9 192/24 DAC, the Audio-PC I built and the notebook (which is now my Control-PC). None of them, no matter how refined, changes with the power cable as the Audio-PC, what I consider incredible.

 

For strategic reasons, I use Transparent PowerLink MM² on the integrated amplifier, the Nordost Valhalla on the DAC and the Purist 20th Anniversary on the Audio-PC. The Transparent because it has an incredible spatiality and sense of time and space, which, together with its very high current capacity able to deliver a gigantic dynamic, makes it an excellent choice for amplification (I know few cables as good for amplification as Transparent). The Nordost because it has an extremely neutral and detailed sound, with an enviable microdynamics, and because it's the most refined cable of my system, elevating the Ayre several levels above (it's amazing what it can do with the resolution). The Purist because it's very musical, very delicate, with impressive extension and decay of treble and deep bass, which play with extreme lightness, drawing each one of the notes. All this has been tried in the most diverse combinations. In dedicated electrical, between the fuse holder and the receptacles (three Furutech GTX) I use only Furutech cables, being the 3TS20 for sources and the 3TS762 for amplification. Likewise, it's the best combination I found (3TS20 more refined and with more accurate, detailed sound, 3TS762 less refined, but with more dynamic sound and with greater bass capability).

 

So, one suggestion I have about your dedicated computers is: if you can try a numerous combinations of cables, do it. If you cannot test and want to risk, use the most refined cable you have on your computer, if you want an increase in resolution, or the most musical, if you want to gain musicality. Often the computer is overlooked and people use the simplest power cables they have. An error that cannot be committed. I'm sure that, if your computer has a reasonably good (or high-level) linear power supply, the sound brought by the cable will appear throughout the system. If you want to mount something with a bulk cable, try using endings with Oyaide 079, or a combination of Oyaide P-046 + C-079 (for the computer, a very good cable is the Nanotec #308 Wonderful). The sound will change a bit with these combinations, but in both cases it will be amazing and you may be surprised!!!

 

PS: I don't have Nanotec cables and I don't intend to advertise for any brand. I mentioned Nanotec and Oyaide because they're a very difficult combination to overcome in terms of cost-effectiveness.


- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#31 FelipeRolim

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 06:20 PM

Hello guys.

 

Although everything I’ve written so far seems quite complex, and although I make it seem like setting up a computer completely dedicated to music reproduction is a sacrilege, in fact, it isn’t. The more complicated it’s to explain and motivate (and for that the long posts), to give the fundamentals that base my way of thinking, but to effectively assemble isn’t difficult, and is even simple.

 

For a long time, I used the dedicated computer alone for my compromised auditions, and this computer met all the prerequisites I detailed in previous posts: linear power supply, RAMdisk, the least possible use of onboard controllers, no mobile parts, SSD with power filter and dedicated SATA cable), dedicated power cable (first, a Furutech 3TS20 with Copper Color connectors, then an Audiopheeling Helicopper SE and finally a Purist 20th Anniversary) and controlled via smartphone, without a monitor. I passed JRiver, and lastly, I was using JPLAY v. 6.2 in Single-PC configuration at 700Hz/0.01s, with OS Clock at 0.5ms, Kernel Streaming, ULTRAstream and Hibernate mode enabled. This was the result of several years of experimentation and optimization.

 

This computer was so good, but so good, that I came to adopt it as a reference for all my experiments in the digital field, especially for tests of DACs and other power supplies and combinations. On this last point, I always read that the configuration of two PCs worked better than one, and I also wanted to get this result. But for a long time this wasn’t possible. The Single-PC (Asrock J1900-ITX, 16GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance, SOtM tx-USBexp, linear power supply) always worked better alone than in double and for all recent tests, I always used the same notebook that today is my Control-PC. I tried a lot: use CAT7 (simple) network cables, make network streaming through a UPnP server (via the TP-Link router - USB connection, JRiver, MinimServer, among others), put linear power supply on the router, put a second router to create a new network, use JPLAY in the configuration of two PCs, use 5GHz Wi-Fi to connect the notebook, tried to create a bridging connection between the notebook's network controllers, but despite having noticed changes with each adjustment, nothing worked. My computer alone was so optimized that the setup of two PCs never played better than the configuration of one computer.

 

This happened until I made the point-to-point connection between the two computers and assigned a completely individual subnet for this connection (without using the Windows bridge connection). It was mine the initial recommendation to adopt the 255.255.255.252 subnet mask, which considerably limits the size of the broadcast, decreases latency between connections, and improves bit-stream between computers. I tried everything, but it was only from these adjustments that the two computers started to play substantially more than a single computer, and even though Control-PC is a notebook with no specific settings. The gains are evident in all aspects (detailing, articulation, speed and bass control, spatiality, musicality) and, in my view, removing the router/switch from the path is one of the keys to the high performance of the two computers. More than this: it’s no use creating an external UPnP server and/or having JPLAY search the file on the network (on the UPnP server or on the NAS), when the router remains a necessary piece for this purpose. It seems to me that, except in cases of very high-level routers/switches (such as application models in large corporative networks), the network management of the home routers isn’t as effective and free from interference, in comparison to direct connection between the devices.

 

Of course with one or two JCAT Net Card FEMTO (and eventually with some high level NAS Synology) this is done in a much more simplistic way, since they have two network connections, but I want to catch the attention of friends, in particular, for the possibility of doing this also with two computers with more limited hardware (without dedicated network cards and even with a notebook in the circuit), as is mine, and still manage to gain in audio performance, using JPLAY FEMTO in Dual-PC configuration with 1000Hz setting. Here it has worked perfectly, and it’s because of this result that in 2019 I intend to build a second dedicated PC (Control-PC), with the same care I had with the first one, and also buy two JCAT Net Card FEMTO (besides the USB card, which will come before).

 

One last detail: I’ve read in some reviews and seen in some YouTube channels some people arguing that with an audiophile switch in the audio path and a renderer at the end (sMS-200 Ultra or ultraRendu/signatureRendu), we can "disregard" everything that’s behind this switch, because it would raise the level of quality sufficiently to the point of nothing else matter. So, according to these people, you could use a Mac Mini, for example, connected to this switch, and there would be no difference for a very high-level server, equipped with dedicated network cards, linear power supplies, and critical requirements for an audio computer. I still cannot understand if this is a misleading advertisement, whether they’re trying to sell some specific product, or if this is indeed true. However, it seems to me that if this switch still depends on a router to do IP management, much of the performance would already be lost, so it makes more sense (and is cheaper) to have a point-to-point connection with two network cards. Also, I cannot imagine the size of the network needed to generate such a large demand that a switch would be needed.

 

So, I want to finish this post saying that, if you cannot build a computer by using server components (Xeon processor and others), build a simple (but carefully assembled) computer, without mobile parts, with a large amount of RAM that allows you to make a RAMdisk, and associate this computer with a notebook via a direct network connection. I can guarantee that, having at least a very good computer (the Audio-PC), the pair with the JPLAY FEMTO installed will be able to reach a level superior to the computer alone, even if well mounted. But, I repeat, I only got it from the moment the router is no longer part of the signal path.


  • Thuan, Rob and moriez like this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#32 Thuan

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 08:06 PM

You've done it again, and I read each line of your thoughts with pleasant agreement and thanks.
  • FelipeRolim likes this
WS2019 core, AO3 (1A/2D), JPLAY/JCAT XE/iOS, ES/TC, Xeon CPU, Industrial ECC RAM, Gustard X26, Singxer SU6, Linkwitz Pluto 2.1+

#33 FelipeRolim

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 03:33 AM

Hello guys. I'll enjoy the insomnia to write some more.

Going back a bit, in the theme of Windows, I'd like to make a complementation: I've already been very worried about the number of background processes executed by Windows. I think this may be more of a concern for processors with two physical cores than on processors with four or more cores, but it's still not something that catches my eye. Obviously we shouldn't admit that totally useless processes are executed, but there's a minimum that increases usability and I think not to be harmful from the point of view of audio quality. The fact is that the number alone doesn't indicate much. Look: when I used Windows 8.1 with the CAD scripts, I could get the system running with something from 20 to 25 processes, and as soon as I discovered that there were Linux with less than 10 processes, I was crazy to test it. It was a disappointment because, with exceptions, Linux here doesn't play as well as Windows with native drivers. More than that: Audio-PC's Windows Server 2016 currently runs on something from 30 to 35 processes (processor usage is less than 1%), and even though it has more processes (almost double), it has a quality considerably higher than Windows 8.1. For these reasons, coupled with the exclusivity of JPLAY in processor core 1 (among options 0, 1, 2 and 3 of the Intel J1900) and the fact of running with real-time priority, I think it isn't of extreme relevance for the performance the number of processes, although not insignificant and not worthy of attention. On the contrary, we must monitor and avoid unnecessary excesses.

In the future, I'll try all this (including a Xeon), but today it doesn't seem to be critical.

Another issue: the network connections of a computer and a router have galvanic isolation and therefore less interference than other connections (although they are also susceptible to losses, interference, jitter and, especially, high latency). In practice, what I observe here is that, since I don't transfer files over the network (not streaming), the existence of a network connection doesn't cause any harm to the audio quality. I've connected and unplugged the cable dozens of times, and at no time did I heard anything different, for better or for worse. But that, I reinforce, I believe that's given to the fact that I don't use streaming. I say this as a further reinforcement in the argument that it's better to use the network for remote control, rather than a monitor, a keyboard, and a mouse, which only bring losses.

 

PS.: thuanb, thank you for your kind words.


  • moriez likes this

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#34 Thuan

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 07:14 PM

#1 Completely agreed. Been there done that, found that minimizing services/processes doesn't directly and instanly lead to better SQ.

#2 Direct connection between PCs is best if NICs are of high performance audio grade. JCAT is my top choice. Otherwise, an audio grade switch can be used as remedy. In addition, such a high quality switch can be used as network conditioner between the setup and home network.
  • FelipeRolim and moriez like this
WS2019 core, AO3 (1A/2D), JPLAY/JCAT XE/iOS, ES/TC, Xeon CPU, Industrial ECC RAM, Gustard X26, Singxer SU6, Linkwitz Pluto 2.1+

#35 FelipeRolim

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 09:20 PM

I agree with you. What I don't understand is: does an audiophile switch allow us to disregard everything behind it? Using an audiophile switch make comple sense to me when the network demands it, when the size of the network is large enough to make a larger number of connections necessary. However, a switch like this could be better than a direct connection between two audio level network cards? I cannot believe that it "erases" the back issues.


- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#36 Thuan

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 11:22 PM

Prior to having JCAT network card(s), I found audio grade switch beneficial. After, direct is best. In addition, I still keep such a switch as a hub to home network connected to AudioPC and controlPC for JPLAY activation and control point access to controlPC.
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WS2019 core, AO3 (1A/2D), JPLAY/JCAT XE/iOS, ES/TC, Xeon CPU, Industrial ECC RAM, Gustard X26, Singxer SU6, Linkwitz Pluto 2.1+

#37 Marcin_gps

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 10:09 AM

I agree with you. What I don't understand is: does an audiophile switch allow us to disregard everything behind it? Using an audiophile switch make comple sense to me when the network demands it, when the size of the network is large enough to make a larger number of connections necessary. However, a switch like this could be better than a direct connection between two audio level network cards? I cannot believe that it "erases" the back issues.

It makes a huge difference even with a single PC...


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#38 FelipeRolim

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 11:22 AM

Marcin, but you means: in any case? Even if I don't stream music and play it directly from an SSD via SATA connection? A few months ago I suspected that the network connection might be harming. At the time, I still used the Single-PC. I plugged in and unplugged the network cable many times and didn't hear any difference. The files were stored on an SSD, in which I used a SATA filter (SOtM) and a dedicated cable (Audiopheeling Statement). You mean that, even in these cases, it can make a difference? Even if I don't do network streaming? How can this happen?


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- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#39 FelipeRolim

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 04:03 PM

Good afternoon guys.

Still in order to deepen the level of analysis regarding the dedicated computer, today I’d like to speak more appropriately of the control of vibration. I beg your leave for another long topic, hehe. Before dealing specifically with the computer, I’d like to speak generically about the subject, with emphasis on the "tendencies" I observe related to specific methods of vibration control, which tend to replicate in a greater or lesser degree in any situation. These are, first, mechanical coupling and uncoupling.

Generally speaking, decoupling an electronic equipment means isolating it mechanically from the rest, which includes the vibrations generated by the speakers, the vibrations generated by other equipment (transformers, valves, turntables, among others), and even earthquake vibration. Conversely, coupling an equipment means attaching it as firmly as possible to what sustains it, adding weight, for example, and perhaps even screwing it somewhere. This all reflects in the way the music will perform, and even applies to equipment that isn’t equipped with moving, mechanical parts, susceptible to vibration. In other words, it's not just valves, HDDs, speakers and discs that will benefit from vibration control, but also and especially from everything I've tested, the computers and receptacles of our systems (and to a large extent, also the cables). I’ve tested various ways of controlling vibration at all possible points in the system, and I’ve noticed very similar trends in the coupling, and in the same way in the decoupling. I realized that the decoupling usually results in a softer, loose, relaxed, diffuse sound, with optimization in spatiality to the detriment of the informativeness. On the other hand, the coupling results in a harder, more precise sound with better focus, better cut, drier and more informative to the detriment of spatiality and diffusion.

In general, decoupling can be achieved by air bags (packaging type), artificial ice caps, shock absorbers (springs, spheres, rubbers – Nordost Sort Kones, Acoustic Revive Air Floating Board), cotton (Acoustic Revive PSA-100), natural wool, acrylic bases, carbon fiber feet, shindos and even soft paper rolls. The coupling can be obtained by adding weight (marble bases, mechanical tuners, lead plates), by fixing the device to the floor, or by any other method. Note that there is great scope for creativity and DIY in this matter. Note also that I have used the term "tendency" to indicate that this isn’t a fixed and immutable rule. If all this weren’t enough, each format and each material produce noticeably different results, and here there’s only one rule: there’s no rule. It’s necessary to thoroughly test what’s best suited to the system and that will result in the most faithful sonority from a timbral point of view, from the point of view of richness of harmonics, of completeness of notes. For example, in the comparison of spikes, of all the ones I’ve tested (aluminum, acrylic, stainless steel, rosewood, ebony, ivory, MDF, naval plywood, peroba, among others), there’s always a fundamental part of the result that I believe be attributed to decoupling, which I consider to be the essential nucleus of this method of vibration isolation, but there are also variations that arise from the material itself. The variations between the materials I think are due to (i) their molecular structure (which influences not only the specific weight of each one, but also the resonance frequency) and (ii) the individual dimensions of each spike (which I also think influence the resonance frequency). The same applies to coupling, which depends on the material and how to promote it. It’s a form of "tuning". This is a form of attunement.

Here, the only places where weight gain is good are in the integrated amplifier and the outlet receptacle, where I use three Furutech GTX-D receptacles (each with an equipment and a Nordost Qv2). I added with them a double marble stone that should weigh easily 25Kg, and the result was great. In no other equipment did the operation match. In the computer, of all the materials that I’ve tested, the ebony spikes are the ones that have delivered the richer, fuller, more perfect sonority. Realize that this doesn’t transform the sound, doesn’t make it play in a completely different way, but collaborates with the whole. More than that: it’s usually easier to see the effect of a spike with not so nice or poorly positioned sound, than the opposite. When the sound improves with a good combination, the gains appear to be subtle. On the other hand, when the sound gets worse, it seems that something is really missing. Curiously, by the time I had the Wireworld Silver Starlight 7 USB, unlike the computer, the best spike I immediately used under Wireworld's USB connector was the Rosewood Spike (a single Timeless Magic Timber). In the DAC something interesting happens: if I put any spike immediately under its original three feet, the sound gets very, very bad. Loses precision, loses control of music. I need to put the spikes directly into the metal chassis, thus avoiding the use of the original feet.

There’s another secret in the operation of mechanical insulation devices: the positioning of each of them. Except for the integrated amplifier Sunrise V8 MK IV, in which I use four 5x20mm carbon fiber bases (the combination, from the bottom up is: steel bases, spikes, double layer marble and carbon fiber bases), in the other equipment I use only three spikes and three bases. In these cases, it’s fundamental for the maximum efficiency that we find, for the three points of support, the weight division that’s as uniform as possible. When each of the three spikes and three bases support approximately equal weight, the tendency (again with the inconclusive term) is that they work better. On my computer, the best performance is achieved by using: a spike immediately under the transformer (left side, bottom), a spike under the motherboard and near the power connector (right side, bottom) and a spike in front of the cabinet, promoting balance between them. This is how I can best extract the performance of ebony spikes. In the end, although inconclusive, I sincerely hope that this post has been instructive. I believe, therefore, that the secret lies in finding the right measure, perfect for (un)coupling. Not much hardness and precision, nor much relaxation and much ease. Hard sound mugs. Loose sound bothers. Both are unrealistic. Also, we need to find the correct material for our equipment, in order to collaborate with a real, expressive, vivid, emotional sound. The problem is that there’s never a rule.

Lastly, the mechanical damping of the cabinet itself (which is usually metallic and vibrates at a frequency not conducive to final sonority - I always think that the material induces its own sound) is also elementary. Once again, we’ll find it difficult to define the best route without exhaustive experimentation. At the time of the PS Audio Digital Link III DAC mods (which I had), Rick Cullen internally coated the case with carbon fiber boards and ERS Cloth (EMI absorber). I personally prefer to coat a metal cabinet like that of a computer, which isn’t subject to very high temperatures with cork. I buy a cork plate of 2 or 3mm thickness and fixed internally, filling as many spaces as possible without damaging the ventilation. I think the sound is more natural, more musical, playing beautifully, and without introducing a distorted sound or make me lose in relevant aspects. Obviously, it’s good to repeat, the results are few significant, but the investment is also, so it turns out to be worth it.

I know a fantastic sonority material, although it’s a bit expensive in Brazil, but with which I’ll build the computer and linear power supply cabinets in the future: Celeron (a hard, dense laminate made of layers of fabric and cotton, loaded with synthetic resin that undergoes constant application of pressure and heat. It’s used for structural purposes, has high resistance to wear, shear and shock, has low coefficient of friction, dampens noises and absorbs vibrations).

In any case, I hope colleagues will be interested in vibration control and test it on their systems. Greetings everyone.

- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes;

- Schiit Freya preamp. (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse);

- DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse;

- Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD; the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM 2400MHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC). Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF.

- Cables: Nordost Tyr (speaker), Nordost Valhalla XLR and Siltech 770i XLR (interconnects), Curious Evolved USB Cable, Nordost Valhalla Power Cable (DAC), Transparent PowerLink MM2 (power amp.), 2 x Purist Audio Design Canorus Praesto Revision Power Cable (power distributor and computers), Purist Audio Design Limited Edition Praesto Revision Power Cable (preamp.) and Jupiter Pure Silver Cotton Insulated (all internal wires from the computers).

- Acessories: Furutech GTX-D (G); Furutech GTX-D ( R) (x2); Sunrise Deep Line (x3); ebony spikes, carbon fiber bases; Nordost Qv2 (x3); acoustical and electrical reinforcements.


#40 Marcin_gps

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 05:08 PM

Marcin, but you means: in any case? Even if I don't stream music and play it directly from an SSD via SATA connection? A few months ago I suspected that the network connection might be harming. At the time, I still used the Single-PC. I plugged in and unplugged the network cable many times and didn't hear any difference. The files were stored on an SSD, in which I used a SATA filter (SOtM) and a dedicated cable (Audiopheeling Statement). You mean that, even in these cases, it can make a difference? Even if I don't do network streaming? How can this happen?

Yes, even if tracks are stored directly on the PC and the network connection used only to connect to home network which transmits packets from remote control apps


JPLAY for iOS: the new reference hi-fi app. 


JCAT: streaming specific products for high-end audio
 
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